June: To Do
If you print out this page, you should get little boxes
where the bullets are, making this a check list.
Oh, and if you really think that I actually do all of these
things, you are terribly confused. Sometimes I even (gasp)
do things that aren't on this list.
June in beautiful in northern Californian coastal/inland valleys.
The central valley is getting really warm, but the coast is still
cool. That weather pattern causes the coastal fog to come inland
to the valleys. Fog is wonderful stuff. It cleans out the air and
keeps the temperatures moderate.
It has stopped raining (other than the fog), so it is time to make
sure your garden is getting enough water.
What's in bloom?
- Annuals: ageratum, lobelia, nasturtiums, petunia, sweet
alyssum, and sweet William.
- Perennials: daylily, carnation, felicia, geranium, and
marguerite.
- Bulb(like): gladiolus, Japanese iris, and lily.
- Shrubs: fuchsia, hibiscus, and rose.
- Vines: bougainvillea, clematis, and star jasmine.
- Natives: clarkia, columbine, mariposa lily, Matilija poppy,
and Western azalea.
What should you buy? ;-)
- Annuals: impatiens, marigold, and petunia.
- Perennials: agapanthus, daylily, geranium, and marguerite.
- Shrubs: fuchsia, hibiscus, and hydrangea.
- Summer veggies.
General
- Water new plants regularly, and be sure to water deeply
during dry weather.
- Weed and water established plants as needed.
Don't allow weeds to form seedheads, and knock down
or mow tall dry grasses to prevent a serious fire
hazard.
- Watch for pests and signs of disease. Snails and
earwigs are devouring seeds.
- Mulch. A good layer is about 2 inches (4 cm) thick.
Trees, Shrubs, and Vines
- Plant container-grown subtropicals
- Fertilize tropicals and subtropicals, and broad-leaved
evergreens when they finish blooming. Yellow leaves
with green veins and lackluster growth indicate an iron
deficiency; feed with iron chelate.
- Fuchsias are at their blooming peak; don't forget to give
them plenty of water and to feed them with an acid
fertilizer. Pinch off entire flower head, including
ovaries to encourage new flowers.
- Feed camellias with an acid-type fertilizer after they
are done blooming.
- You can prune camellias now. Find the bump on eash
branch where the new growth grew out of the old and cut back
to this point; it may encourage more flowers. If you cut
back further, you may delay blooming for a year, but it will
bloom again.
- Pinch or prune shrubs and vines when they finish flowering,
removing poorly placed growth and stems growing at awkward
angles.
- If you haven't already, prune lilac, philadelphus, spiraea,
and broom. The lilac, at least, is well past blooming. (I
don't grow the others.)
- Lightly prune spring-blooming shrubs like azaleas
and forsythias.
- Prune suckers and weak or damaged wood from trees and
shrubs to prevent wind damage.
- Keep trees mulched to about 1 foot from trunk.
- Mulch to hold moisture around shrubs' roots during the
stressful hot weather to come, especially broad-
leaved evergreens like azaleas, rhododendrons, and
camellias.
Roses
- Deadhead faded flowers from repeat bloomers.
- Prune climbers and ramblers when finished blooming
unless you want hips. It must be a rose that
produces fruit, and not all roses do.
- Fertilize roses with a complete fertilizer and with
iron chelate if necessary.
- Mulch to hold moisture around plants' roots during the
stressful hot weather to come.
- Hose waterers: build a basin around roses to hold water for
deep watering.
- RUST I had the stuff all over my roses in 1996. Remove
affected leaves and spray with a sulpher based fungicide.
- Watch for signs of mildew and aphids on roses and spray
promptly if they are found. (I don't reach for the chemicals
first thing. With mildew, I cut off the affected area. If
that doesn't do the trick, I will spray with an antifungal
specially for mildew on roses. As for the aphids, I try the
hose first, insecticidal soap second, and then something
stronger if the first two don't work.) My mother
told me about a journal article that looked at
increasing the water on a mildew infected area. That the
study indicated that increased water reduced mildew. So if
you spray with a hose for aphids, you may not have to worry
about mildew as long as you do it often.
Lawns and Ground Covers
- Lightly fertilize warm-season lawn grasses.
- Mow lawn as needed, but mow it higher. This will conserve
water.
- Water weekly if weather is dry (that's what the book says.
I don't have lawn, but that doesn't seem often enough to me.)
- If lawn looks sparse, thin overhead tree branches, reseed
with shade-tolerant grasses or replace with shade-tolerant
groundcover.
Perennials
- Mulch to hold moisture around plants' roots during the
stressful hot weather to come.
- Deadhead faded flowers unless you want plants to self-sow.
- Pinch back mums to make them bushy and encourage more blooms.
- Sow biennials like wall flowers and forget-me-nots (these
perform like perennials not biennials in Sunset Zone 14).
- Plant: coreopsis, gaillardia, penstemon, "Homestead Purple"
verbena, rudbekia, Russian sage, salvia, statice, and summer
phlox.
- Note which plants need division in fall.
- Check stakes on tall plants
- Make notes for plants to order for fall planting to fill
gaps in blooming seaons.
Bulbs
- Plant summer bulbs
- Fertilize as plants begin to grow.
- Plant tropical waterlilies in ponds or tubs. As a
matter of fact, I have not ever grown tropical water
lilies, but it seems a bit late. I think you could have
planted them last month.
- Once glads start to bloom, you can cut them for indoor
arrangements. When cutting remove the least amount of
foliage with each flower spike.
- Tuberous begoinias are coming into their best season. They
need plenty of water to bloom. Don't forget to feed with an
acid fertilizer.
- Put stakes in place for tall dahlias, lilies, and gladiolas
- Remove foliage of spring bulbs when it yellows and dries.
- Dig, divide, and replant crowded spring bulbs.
- When irises are finished blooming, they can be dug, divided,
and transplanted.
Annuals
- Continue planting tender annuals in bare spots and to replace
fatigued plants.
- Heat tolerant sun plants are: cosmos, marigolds, gaillardia,
portulaca, tithonia, and zinnias.
- Bedding plants for the shade are: caladiums, coleus, and
impatiens.
- Plant: verbena, gentian sage, globe amaranth, Madagascar
periwinkle (vinca rosa), scarlet sage, 'Victoria' mealy-cup
sage.
- Remove spent plants from garden
- Feed new seedlings with liquid fertilizer, older plants
regularly.
- Thin seedlings planted earlier.
- Direct seed ageratum, celosias, marigolds, nasturtiums,
globe amaranth, sunflowers, and zinnias for late summer and
autumn bloom.
- Mulch to hold moisture around plants' roots during the
stressful hot weather to come.
- Be sure tall plants, such as delphiniums and delphiniums,
have stakes and annual vines are attached to supports.
- Deadhead faded flowers promptly.
- Cut delphiniums back halfway when they finish blooming to
encourage a second flush.
Container Gardens
- Fertilize container plants regularly.
- Water as needed. It might be necessary to water 2x/day
during HOT weather. The soil in a pot should feel
slightly damp to your finger. If you wait until the plants
start to wilt, it is too late.
- There are some exceptions to the watering rule. Geraniums,
for example, bloom better if slightly dry.
- Provide supports for climbing plants.
- Deadhead faded flowers.
- If you mulch your pots, they will dry out slower.
- Cosmos, fuchsias, geraniums, gerberas, impatiens,
marguerites, petunias, tuberous begonias, and zinnias are
excellent container plants. If you have the room, hydrangea
or a small rose also make good container plants.
Kitchen Garden: Vegetables and Herbs
- Harvest early crops.
- Sow warm-season crops indoors for fall harvest.
- Sow corn outdoors.
- Make successional sowings of crops like beets, carrots,
lettuces, and turnips. (I don't grow these.)
- Plant potatoes. (I don't grow these.)
- Plant out seedlings such as cabbages, cauliflowers, celery,
corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, okra, outdoor tomatoes,
peppers, pumpkin, and squash. (I don't grow these.)
- Sow or plant runner and pole beans outdoors. (I don't grow
these.)
- Sow string beans. (I don't grow these.)
- Thin seedling sown earlier.
- Start to feed tomatoes when the first truss of fruit has
set.
- Still have time to sow basil and cilantro seeds.
- Remove developing flower heads from plants like basil,
chervil, costmary, lemon balm, lemon verbena, oregano,
rosemary, and tarragon. The leaves are more flaverful if the
flowers aren't allowed to develop.
- Caraway will live an extra season if its flowers are
removed.
- Mulch when plants are several inches high.
- Check stakes and supports on tall plants and climbing
plants.
- Fertilize as needed. Fertilized herbs grow luch and full
at the expense of flavor. Is it better to have an ugly
scrawn herb that is intensely flavorful or a big beautiful
herb? It's up to you.
- A slow, deep watering is more effective than frequent
sprinkles. Slow irrigation allows water to get down to the
roots, encouraging them to grow deeper, making the plants more
drought tolerant.
- Pull spent crops
- Start drying herbs for cooking, indoor arrangements, or
potpourris.
- Turn compost pile.
- Add young, seedhead-free weeds to the compost pile.
- Keep compost pile damp to encourage faster composting.
- Watch out for aphids on fava beans and root flies on
cabbages, carrots and onions. Prevention is better than cure.
Try planting alliums, like onions, chives, garlic and
flowering alliums near your susceptible plants.
Fruit
- Harvest ripe fruit.
- Cover ripening berries with netting to protect from birds.
- Cut brambles back to ground after harvest.
Information about raspberries.
- Fertilize citrus and tropical fruit.
- Check citrus (particularly lemons) for overburdened or
broken branches. Cut back an overburdened to about 1/2 and
continue to pinch it back during the summer growing season.
- Thin tree fruits to about 4 inches (8 cm) between remaining
fruit.
- Trap larvae on tree trunks.
- Prune wood damged by fire blight and suckers.
- Prune back kiwi vines to four or five buds. Bee sure to
water the vine; they need water to produce fruit.
- Wrap fruit tree trunks with a sticky tape to control
ants. Make sure the tape is very low so it doesn't
attract humming birds.
- Pick up dropped fruit and leaves.
House, greenhouse, or conservatory plants
- Feed pots regularly
- Take leaf cutting of saintpaulias and streptocarpus.
- Move tender and tropical houseplants outdoors for the
season in the SHADE.
- Prune back any plants that need it when you take them
outdoors.
- An old nylon stocking will keep slugs and snails from
crawling up thru pot drainholes.
- If you are growing poinsettas for winter color, keep the
plants pinched back to encourage branching and feed them
regularly.
- Feed cymbidiums every 2 weeks with a high nitrogen liquid
fertilizer like one for orchids.
Structural/Other
- Check sprinklers or other watering system.
- FIRE PREVENTION: Clear all dry brush and volunteer
grasses to at least 30 feet from you house. Remove or thin
chaparral growth, but leave native trees and large shrubs to
hold the hillside. Occassional summer irrigations will help
to prevent the leaves from drying out.
Please, please, clear your land, and get your neighbors to
clear theirs. While it won't stop a firestorm in its full
fury, clearing dry, dead brush and grass goes a long way in
preventing fires from starting and spreading.
Fight for your right to web standards!