Preparation

• 1/2" bias-tape maker
• Bias binder attachment foot for your sewing machine or tube turner
• 1 pkg. water-soluble stabilizer paper
• #2 (soft, moderately thick lead) pencil
• See-through plastic ruler
• Rotary cutter
• Zea Vest Collection, pattern #799
• Fabric, as follows:
  • Size XXS-S: 1-5/8 yards (45" wide) or 1-3/8 yards (60" wide) Back lining:5/8 yard (45" or 60" wide)
  • Sizes M-XL: 1-7/8 yards (45" wide) or 1-5/8 yards (60" wide) Back lining: 3/4 yard (45" or 60" wide)
  • Sizes 2X-4X: 2 yards (45" wide) or 1-7/8 yards (60" wide) Back lining: 3/4 yard (45" or 60" wide)

1. Use a pencil to trace the pattern piece cutting lines on your stabilizer.
2. Cut out the shape with a border that extends 1" beyond the pattern cutting lines.
3. Draw or trace horizontal and vertical lines on one stabilizer pattern piece to create a 1-1/2" grid (Figure A). The grid should be carefully drawn so the lines stay parallel to one another.
4. Latticework needs to be symmetrical if it's used in the same location on the right and left side of a garment. Place the gridded stabilizer shape under the blank stabilizer shape and trace the lines on the remaining shape. Transfer the markings to the right side of the stabilizer if necessary for visibility.

• Stiffen fabric for ease of handling with a fabric stiffener or spray starch. Cut generous 1"-wide bias strips to make the 1/4"-wide tubes for the vest.

  Note: Always test a single strip. Cut a single strip of bias fabric to the desired width and make a tube. If the width is to your liking, cut out all the strips that you need.

• Use a rotary cutter and ruler and cut the strips diagonally across the entire bias width of the fabric (Figure A).

1. Choose a stitch. You can use straight or decorative machine stitches or motifs. An electronic machine with an auto-stop control makes it simple to do a single decorative stitch. If you don't have this feature, sew a straight stitch diagonally across each intersection.
2. Place all of the bias tubes beside you at your sewing machine.
3. Start at the longest vertical grid line on the right side of a stabilizer shape. Place a bias tube alongside a marked line, since it's difficult to center a bias tube on a line (Figure A). The tube ends need to extend at least 1/2" past the traced pattern boundary line.
4. Place a second, horizontal, bias tube across the first. Position the second tube so that it is across the widest part of the stabilizer shape and the upper edge is aligned with the grid line.
5. Use your chosen stitch to sew through the intersection of the bias tubes and the stabilizer underneath (Figure B).
6. As you add each tube, stitch through the tubes and stabilizer at every intersection. Position and stitch only one intersection at a time. Then move on to the next strip. It doesn't matter whether you add vertical or horizontal tubes, as long as you work out from your starting place. Make sure that you weave the crosswise and lengthwise bias tubes over and under each other as you go. This gives your fabric a more pleasing appearance. Continue adding more bias tubes in this fashion until your Latticework is complete (Figure C).

   Tip: Use the long bias tubes first, placing the leftover pieces in another pile for the short grid lines.

7. If you're making matching pieces for the left and right side of a garment, they need to be symmetrical. Place bias tubes to the left of the grid line on one stabilizer shape, and to the right on the other. Align the top of every horizontal bias tube with a grid line.

1. Place the right side of the latticework shape against the right side of the adjacent garment piece with the raw edges even. Now place the right side of the facing or lining on the wrong side of the latticework, also with the raw edges even.
2. Stitch the pieces together (Figure A). Trim away excess latticework seam allowance to approximately 1/4" to 3/8" wide.
3. Press the garment piece and facing or lining away from the latticework.
4. Side seams can be constructed similarly by sewing the right sides of vest front and back together. Fold the seam of the lining 5/8" to the wrong side. Pin and stitch in place.

1. Any latticework edges that aren't sewn to another pattern piece need to be covered with bias binding. You may continue the binding along other nonmesh edges on the garment. Cut bias trim a generous 1" wide (Figure B). Test sample for best results.
2. Binding can be done by using a soft fusible web. Use a paper-backed double-sided fusible. Trim the double sided fusible from the packaged 3/8" width to a scant 1/4" width. Press double sided fusible to right side of one long edge of binding. Remove paper.
3. Pin non fused edge of binding to garment edge, right sides together (use a contrast color thread in the bobbin for visibility.) Stitch at 1/4" from the garment edge.
4. With right side of garment down, wrap fused edge of binding over the edge of vest. Turn the fused edge under, placing the folded edge just along the contrast color thread line of stitching and press. Continue to fuse a section at a time until the entire garment is fused.
5. Edge stitch the binding in place 1/8" from the edge from the right side of the garment.

1. Tear away as much of the water-soluble paper as possible.
2. Place the garment in a sink of water to remove the remaining paper. Warm water dissolves the paper faster. If necessary, gently agitate the garment to remove the paper (Figure C).
3. If too much paper pulp accumulates, drain the sink and add fresh water.

Variations of Latticework Fabric

1. Latticework vest made with trim.
2. Make an accent inset.
3. Make an overlay for a garment to add a stunning detail.