Making Adjustments

A little bit of swinging flare, some unique lines and a touch of nostalgia all add up to this stylish and comfy suit! Guest Mary Lou Rankin joins host Susan Khalje to show how this jacket and skirt can be constructed with a two-toned look. The jacket features princess seams, with side panels cut on the bias and a bit of flare in the side seams. The sleeves also have interesting curved seams and unusual cuff darts. The straight skirt features a cutaway hem in front and uses an elastic waist.

Materials:


The two-toned suit has a retro look but is totally contemporary.

This selection of buttons shows just a few of the options available.
Steps:
  1. Adjust the jacket pattern for your size by measuring your shoulder length and folding (or adding to) pattern from shoulder to hem for appropriate width (Figure A).
  2. Cut out jacket pattern pieces. Cut bias for hem facings.

Figure A

Stitching and Topstitching

The body of the jacket begins to take shape, and optional topstitching is added to embellish the lapels.

  1. If needed, staystitch curves on jacket pieces.
  2. You may texturize and embellish the lapel facing to show when lapel is folded back (figure A). A series of running stitches is a simple way to do this.
  3. Sew front princess seams on jacket; topstitch.
  4. Sew facing to jacket fronts. Press under inner edge to just cover princess seam and pin.
  5. Topstitch outer edge.
  6. Sew shoulder seams.
  7. Turn under collar edge; slipstitch (figure B).

Figure A
Figure B

Sleeves, Facings and a Button

The two-tone sleeves look difficult but aren't, nor are facings on the jacket's curved front, A few careful seams, and you're all ready to add a loop-and-button closure.
  1. Sew sleeve darts; press.
  2. Sew sleeve halves together; press.
  3. Sew sleeves to jacket.
  4. Sew side seams.
  5. Stitch on bias hem facing, turn up and topstitch.
  6. Slipstitch inner edges of front facing down; slipstitch hem facing.
  7. Create button loop (Figure A): stitch on a couple loops of thread, adjusting size to accommodate your chosen button. Do a series of "crochet" knots (Figure B) to complete loop and tie off at end. Two small buttons will nicely cover the ends of this button loop on the inside (Figure C). Sew on button.

Figure A

Figure B
Figure C

Making the Skirt

The lines of the jacket are complemented by the softly curving hemline of the skirt, which is the final addition to your new suit.
  1. Cut out skirt pattern pieces.
  2. Stitch on pocket pieces.
  3. Complete side seam and pockets with one continuous seam (Figure A).
  4. Fold under top for elastic casing and stitch down.
  5. Thread elastic through and stitch down at sides to prevent rolling.
  6. Pin on hem facing, matching curved front opening (Figure B). Stitch to skirt, turn and topstitch.
  7. Slipstitch top of hem facing to skirt.

A view of the suit showing the curved hemline of the skirt.

Figure A
Figure B